Kolkata – ‘The city for everyone’

Website design By BotEap.comTrain travel has always given a special touch to many of the trips I have taken throughout the forty-five years of my existence. These special moments, courtesy of Indian Railways, date back to the early 1970s, when I used to travel with my father to Madras during my childhood, where I attended primary school. Memories of such journeys along the gauge track connecting Egmore to Kollam remain ever present in the memory. Train travel, especially in the Indian subcontinent, has an allure and is perfectly intertwined with the travel dreams of every Indian. Traveling cheap while experiencing India’s cultural and linguistic diversity is the highlight of south to north or east to west rail travel. This visit to Kolkata started with one such trip. A train ride from Trivandrum to this historic city, ‘the city of joy’ now renamed ‘city for all’.

Website design By BotEap.comThis visit to Kolkata was special as it was my first visit to this cultural center of India. The pre-independence days, turbulent with a national spirit yearning for freedom, absorbed the energy and spirit of Kolkata to propel Indian nationalism towards its ultimate goal. Nethaji Subhash Chandra Bose, the fiery spirit of Indian nationalism against British rule was the son of this great city. His views, different from Gandhi’s, could have given India a superior position on the Asian and international stage if the revolution had been successful. We reached Shalimar station, one of the four main railway stations in Kolkata by Gurudev express from Trivandrum on 12th November 2013 at 3:50pm, two hours late. Our driver, Siddarth, was waiting outside when we pulled off the platform. Soon we were driving towards the heart of Kolkata. The most striking feature of this metropolis is the presence of numerous old buildings, some over two hundred years old, along with new ones. Renamed Rabindra Sethu Bridge in 1965, Howrah Bridge towers over the Hoogly River, which is actually the Ganges, was a sight to behold as our taxi passed over it. Siddarth gave a good account of the history of himself and other buildings and monuments on either side as we went along. Hoogly by the sheer volume of water it contained was an amazing sight. Numerous ships and barges could be seen folding along it. The West Bengal Tourism Development Corporation (WBTDC) offers river rides at different prices.

Website design By BotEap.comI was surprised to find neatness and consistent traffic on the roads contrary to my belief that Kolkata was a place of utter chaos. This turned out to be a mirage as Kolkata’s ugly face soon surfaced. Dusty and dirty Kolkata was evident as we drove on. Soon, the taxi turned into a quiet and elegant street that had sidewalks and reminded me of the Chinatown in Singapore where I had been a year ago. The streets weren’t that wide but they were clean and lined with palatial old buildings. This was a fancy area, they told me. We alighted at the second house, the hotel where my dear friend, Venugopal, a native of Kannur and a resident of Calcutta for the last forty years, had arranged our accommodation. Thanks to his influence, we were able to get a luxury room at a very cheap price.

Website design By BotEap.comAlthough tired after the long journey, I couldn’t resist walking through the streets towards the lake side near our hotel while Babu, my colleague and partner, chose to rest in the room. This park, as it could be called more aptly, is one of the many bodies of water in the city located in the middle of the vegetation. Many youngsters along with the opposite sex could be seen in the green shadows. It was getting dark even though it was only 5pm. The phenomenon of early daylight fading is very evident in the northeastern regions. When I got back to the hotel room, it was quite dark and I somehow convinced Babu to come out one more time. Kalighat, where the famous Kali temple is located, was only 1.5 km from our hotel. Despite the fact that the festivities associated with Durga Pooju ended only a few days ago, the place was abuzz with colour. The typical Calcutta spirit was evident as a procession passed us with men, women and children dancing and singing with joy and fervor following a huge idol of Kali on a truck. Celebrations in Kolkata are marked by indulgence and enjoyment. The temple, I would say, did not have the neatness associated with those in Kerala. However, sincerity and faith were evident.

Website design By BotEap.comThe next day began with a taxi ride to the WBTDC Tourism Center located about four miles from our hotel. Our host had booked two tickets through WBTDC for a one day city tour. It turned out to be a worthwhile experience considering the low cost of the tickets (Rs. 450/- per person) and the number of places covered. We arrived at the WBTDC tourism center at 8:30 am to introduce ourselves for the tour. Since there was enough time, we decided to have breakfast with the vendor who provided iddlies and chutney opposite the tourist office. It turned out to be a good idea, since the food was delicious and the cost did not affect our pockets. The tour started at 9:30am with a side window view of Raj Bhavan, Akashwani Bhavan, Bidhan Sabha, High Court, Treasury Building, St. John’s Church, GPO Building, the Writers before entering the Howrah Bridge. A commentary from the guide on the history and importance of the buildings and sights on either side of the road was very informative. We stopped at Belur Math which was built and maintained by Sri Ramakrishna Math. This is a place of exquisite beauty both in terms of natural and man-made landmarks. Set in peaceful surroundings on the banks of the Hoogly, the prayer hall is housed in a building that is an architectural marvel. It was hard to swallow the fact that such a place could exist in the midst of the chaos and din of Kolkata. After spending some time there we set out for the Dakshineswar temple. Here Matha Kali is the main deity with twelve Shiva lingas housed in the adjoining area along the banks of the Hoogly. Along the nearby bathing ghat, many pilgrims were seen performing pooja and bathing in the Hoogly waters.

Website design By BotEap.comOur next stop was the Jain temple, which again is an architectural splendor albeit of a different kind. The intricate drawings and carvings on the wall are a sight to behold. A small shop on the premises gives tourists the opportunity to purchase locally made ornaments. The Police museum, which was the next stop, displayed an impressive array of weapons and gave an insight into the history of the Bengal State Police Force. Raja Ram Mohan Roy Museum, our next stopping point was the ancestral home of this great man. His works, writings and other contributions are exhibited supported by documentary evidence. This was a truly enlightening moment in my life. During the lunch stop, our guide showed us a restaurant that was famous for Bengal fish curry. The taste was quite different from Kerala style fish curry, but quite delicious.

Website design By BotEap.comThe first monument along the way when the tour resumed after lunch was the Shaheed Minar, followed by the town hall and the historic Gardens of Eden. We alighted at Nethaji Bhavan, the residence of Nethaji Subhash Chandra Bose. The inspiring images of Nethaji and the letters written by him during the period from the mid-1930s to the late 1940s choked me with emotion. I couldn’t help but wonder where India would have been among the nations of the world if Nethaji had succeeded in realizing his dream. The car in which Nethaji escaped to Burma when the British stormed his house still stands in the same condition in the front yard.

Website design By BotEap.comAfter saying goodbye to Nethaji’s residence, we proceed to the Victoria Museum, the jewel of Kolkata. This monumental building set in the middle of acres of extensive gardens gave the feeling of being in some European country.

Website design By BotEap.comThe next and last day in Kolkata, after having breakfast at Banana leaf, a popular South Indian restaurant, we decided to try the city’s metro and trams. The metro, although not as sophisticated as the one in Delhi, is a cheap and fast way to get around. Boarding at Kalighat and get off at Esplanade. To get a real feel for Kolkata, we took a hand-pulled rickshaw to the tram station. Boarding a tram from Esplande we get off at Kalighat to complete a full circle. The tram, a cost-effective and pollution-free mode of transportation is the trademark of Kolkata. Promoting tram rides in association with the Department of Tourism is a sure way of attracting tourists, both domestic and international, to Kolkata.

Website design By BotEap.comThat evening, after a taxi ride to Sealdah, a bustling station about fifteen kilometers from our hotel, we boarded the Uttar Banga express to New Jalpaiguri (Siliguri) at 7:40 pm. Priyanka, a young woman who works in Kolkata, and my fellow traveler on the train shared their experiences in Kolkata, which made me think. The night I was lying on the top bunk in the train compartment, thoughts of the Calcutta experiences kept me awake for quite some time. The most amazing aspect was that the culture and essence of Kolkata is found in the system that goes smoothly in the chaotic hustle and bustle woven into the life of every Kolkata.